Installation of our ornaments is in general simple and fast and can be done by a handy person although in some cases skilled tradesmen should do it.

1. Storage
AAO moldings are waterproof and are not affected by humidity, but they would expand or contract due to temperature. If stored close to sources of heat or in hot environments during summer, they should be allowed to return to normal room temperature for approx. 24 hours before installation. However, cold temperatures do not affect AAO moldings, and they can be installed immediately after being exposed to low temperature conditions.

2. Tools and Materials
• AAO polyurethane adhesive recommended but any latex adhesive caulk can be used.
• Galvanized screws or galvanized ring shank nails (for best results, trim head drywall screws are recommended).
• Plastic filler or painters’ putty.
• Fine sand paper. (AAO moldings support sanding, just like wood)
• Screw driver
• Miter box
• Hand saw
• Latex or oil based paint
• Spackle
• Paint brush
• Wet cloth or damp sponge for cleaning

3. Preparation
AAO architectural moldings can be installed over any clean, dust free surface. However, installation over wallpaper is not recommended. Do not install moldings on wet or damp paint. Check that surface is sound and flat. Slight deviations in surface flatness will not be noticeable in the finished job. If using screws or nails to secure moldings, make sure there are not electric cables or pipes beneath the wall surface.

4. Crown Moldings, Cornices, Wall Panels, and Ceiling Friezes Installation
Here are the most important steps for a successful installation:
• To position the moldings correctly, mark the walls and ceiling with the measurement profile of the molding to be fitted, chalking a continuous line around the room for guidance until the location of the bottom of the moldings is marked on each wall. Marking the wall for alignment of the molding can be done by snapping a chalked line, but because ceilings and walls are seldom straight, a better method is to hold a molding in place, making sure that the ceiling and wall flanges are flat against the surfaces and mark the bottom of the molding with a pencil or chalk. If you feel insecure, you could affix with screws a wooden support border on the wall for the molding to sit on. Once the molding has been installed, remove the support border and fill the screw holes.
• Moldings expand and contract with temperature and must be installed tightly. A 24-hour temperature adjustment allowance in a cool, dry area is recommended before installation. Most AAO crown moldings and friezes are supplied in 8-foot (2.4 m) lengths. While AAO polyurethane moldings are of superior quality and densely packed (about the density of pine wood) they have a minimal shrinkage factor that will not exceed 1/32" per foot of length (2.5 mm per m). Before installation it is best to cut and fit all the moldings necessary for the entire room. Allow from 1/16" to 1/8" (1 to 3 mm) extra length per section when cutting, so that pieces fit tightly. Add a minimum of one or two feet extra of moldings for each corner in the room, to have enough material for mitering waste.
• Begin installing in the most inconspicuous inside corner of the room. Most cornices and friezes have design elements that require matching. As you work around the room, you will be able to match these elements at each joint. It may not be possible to match the patterns in the last corner fitted (i.e. back at your starting point). Place the molding aligned to the top of the support border or guidance chalk line.
• Apply a 1/4" (6 mm) bead of super latex caulk to the perimeter of the back surface of the frieze or in a continuous 1/4" (6 mm) bead around the edges on the top and back surfaces of each cornice. Use enough adhesive so that the entire surface of the cut edge at each end is covered. Push molding flat to wall and/or ceiling and secure with three trim head galvanized screws long enough to penetrate through the molding well into the wall. The screws should be placed such that their recessed heads can be easily filled and blended. Often, the best place to locate screws is into ornamentation as opposed to a plain area. This way, the filled holes are less likely to be noticeable. Continue installing lengths of crown using the same method, also applying copious amounts of adhesive on all butt joints while ensuring the molding profiles are in alignment.
• Our specially designed cornice corners could be used for the corners of the room. However, if they are not available, the quickest, easiest and safest way to cut cornice miters is to use a miter box and a regular hand saw. Although an electric compound miter saw may at first appear attractive, the results you can achieve using a simple miter box which you purchase or build yourself are usually superior. No complex calculations are required. Note that the cornice is upside down in the miter box - with the bottom edge of the cornice against the side of the miter box farthest away from you. The far side of the miter box corresponds to the wall and its bottom corresponds to the ceiling.
• To complete your installation, fill the screw or nail holes and any gaps between moldings using a clean, wet putty knife and a sandable, non-shrinking latex filler (spackling). It is very important to remove the excess caulk or filler from between the molding strips. It is better to have a recess than a ridge of compound. The recess can be easily filled with a little spackling compound on the fingertip. Filled holes should be primed before painting for the best results.

5. Medallions Installation
• We recommend having our product on hand to insure exact measurements before installing. Look at the design of the medallion and align the detail with the walls. IMPORTANT: remove medallion from box by grasping inner rim.
• Some ceiling medallions have center holes pre-casted in them for access to electrical boxes and some do not. The installer can cut any size hole with either a drill bit or for larger holes with a saber saw. The canopy or cup of the fixture will then fit over this hole.
• Locate and mark the walls studs/ceiling joists where the product will be mounted.
• Adhesive must be used for medallion installation. Apply 1/4" (6 mm) bead of super latex caulk to the to the back perimeter of the product to insure bonding to the wall or ceiling. Press it into place and fasten it with three trim head screws.
• Always remove excess adhesive before it starts drying.
• The installer must now fasten the piece with galvanized wood screws directly to the ceiling joists above. The best spots will be those on the design that are thick, solid and plain. The screws should be placed such that their recessed heads can be easily filled and blended.
• Finally, just like for the moldings, the mounted piece will be pointed around the edges and the counter sunk screw heads will be filled with filler. With a fine wet paintbrush, use feathering technique to blend the patches in with the design. Remove any excess compound immediately.

Safety tip: Never use light fixture or electric cords to support medallion, and the other way around, never use medallion to support light fixture

6. Finish
Our moldings come factory primed. However, filled holes and gaps should be primed before painting for the best results. For finishing we recommend flat paint, stain or faux.

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