Installation of our ornaments is in general
simple and fast and can be done by a handy person although
in some cases skilled tradesmen should do it.
AAO moldings are waterproof and are not affected by humidity,
but they would expand or contract due to temperature. If stored
close to sources of heat or in hot environments during summer,
they should be allowed to return to normal room temperature
for approx. 24 hours before installation. However, cold temperatures
do not affect AAO moldings, and they can be installed immediately
after being exposed to low temperature conditions.
2. Tools and Materials
• AAO polyurethane adhesive recommended but any latex
adhesive caulk can be used.
• Galvanized screws or galvanized ring shank nails (for
best results, trim head drywall screws are recommended).
• Plastic filler or painters’ putty.
• Fine sand paper. (AAO moldings support sanding, just
• Screw driver
• Miter box
• Hand saw
• Latex or oil based paint
• Paint brush
• Wet cloth or damp sponge for cleaning
AAO architectural moldings can be installed over any clean,
dust free surface. However, installation over wallpaper is
not recommended. Do not install moldings on wet or damp paint.
Check that surface is sound and flat. Slight deviations in
surface flatness will not be noticeable in the finished job.
If using screws or nails to secure moldings, make sure there
are not electric cables or pipes beneath the wall surface.
4. Crown Moldings, Cornices, Wall Panels, and Ceiling
Here are the most important steps for a successful installation:
• To position the moldings correctly, mark the walls
and ceiling with the measurement profile of the molding to
be fitted, chalking a continuous line around the room for
guidance until the location of the bottom of the moldings
is marked on each wall. Marking the wall for alignment of
the molding can be done by snapping a chalked line, but because
ceilings and walls are seldom straight, a better method is
to hold a molding in place, making sure that the ceiling and
wall flanges are flat against the surfaces and mark the bottom
of the molding with a pencil or chalk. If you feel insecure,
you could affix with screws a wooden support border on the
wall for the molding to sit on. Once the molding has been
installed, remove the support border and fill the screw holes.
• Moldings expand and contract with temperature and
must be installed tightly. A 24-hour temperature adjustment
allowance in a cool, dry area is recommended before installation.
Most AAO crown moldings and friezes are supplied in 8-foot
(2.4 m) lengths. While AAO polyurethane moldings are of superior
quality and densely packed (about the density of pine wood)
they have a minimal shrinkage factor that will not exceed
1/32" per foot of length (2.5 mm per m). Before installation
it is best to cut and fit all the moldings necessary for the
entire room. Allow from 1/16" to 1/8" (1 to 3 mm)
extra length per section when cutting, so that pieces fit
tightly. Add a minimum of one or two feet extra of moldings
for each corner in the room, to have enough material for mitering
• Begin installing in the most inconspicuous inside
corner of the room. Most cornices and friezes have design
elements that require matching. As you work around the room,
you will be able to match these elements at each joint. It
may not be possible to match the patterns in the last corner
fitted (i.e. back at your starting point). Place the molding
aligned to the top of the support border or guidance chalk
• Apply a 1/4" (6 mm) bead of super latex caulk
to the perimeter of the back surface of the frieze or in a
continuous 1/4" (6 mm) bead around the edges on the top
and back surfaces of each cornice. Use enough adhesive so
that the entire surface of the cut edge at each end is covered.
Push molding flat to wall and/or ceiling and secure with three
trim head galvanized screws long enough to penetrate through
the molding well into the wall. The screws should be placed
such that their recessed heads can be easily filled and blended.
Often, the best place to locate screws is into ornamentation
as opposed to a plain area. This way, the filled holes are
less likely to be noticeable. Continue installing lengths
of crown using the same method, also applying copious amounts
of adhesive on all butt joints while ensuring the molding
profiles are in alignment.
• Our specially designed cornice corners could be used
for the corners of the room. However, if they are not available,
the quickest, easiest and safest way to cut cornice miters
is to use a miter box and a regular hand saw. Although an
electric compound miter saw may at first appear attractive,
the results you can achieve using a simple miter box which
you purchase or build yourself are usually superior. No complex
calculations are required. Note that the cornice is upside
down in the miter box - with the bottom edge of the cornice
against the side of the miter box farthest away from you.
The far side of the miter box corresponds to the wall and
its bottom corresponds to the ceiling.
• To complete your installation, fill the screw or nail
holes and any gaps between moldings using a clean, wet putty
knife and a sandable, non-shrinking latex filler (spackling).
It is very important to remove the excess caulk or filler
from between the molding strips. It is better to have a recess
than a ridge of compound. The recess can be easily filled
with a little spackling compound on the fingertip. Filled
holes should be primed before painting for the best results.
5. Medallions Installation
• We recommend having our product on hand to insure
exact measurements before installing. Look at the design of
the medallion and align the detail with the walls. IMPORTANT:
remove medallion from box by grasping inner rim.
• Some ceiling medallions have center holes pre-casted
in them for access to electrical boxes and some do not. The
installer can cut any size hole with either a drill bit or
for larger holes with a saber saw. The canopy or cup of the
fixture will then fit over this hole.
• Locate and mark the walls studs/ceiling joists where
the product will be mounted.
• Adhesive must be used for medallion installation.
Apply 1/4" (6 mm) bead of super latex caulk to the to
the back perimeter of the product to insure bonding to the
wall or ceiling. Press it into place and fasten it with three
trim head screws.
• Always remove excess adhesive before it starts drying.
• The installer must now fasten the piece with galvanized
wood screws directly to the ceiling joists above. The best
spots will be those on the design that are thick, solid and
plain. The screws should be placed such that their recessed
heads can be easily filled and blended.
• Finally, just like for the moldings, the mounted piece
will be pointed around the edges and the counter sunk screw
heads will be filled with filler. With a fine wet paintbrush,
use feathering technique to blend the patches in with the
design. Remove any excess compound immediately.
Safety tip: Never use light fixture
or electric cords to support medallion, and the other way
around, never use medallion to support light fixture
Our moldings come factory primed. However, filled holes and
gaps should be primed before painting for the best results.
For finishing we recommend flat paint, stain or faux.
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